Since we have the diagram, what is the best way to flush the hydrolic system? The book says to drain it from the hose on the tank bottom, but where would I be able to stick a hose in a new jug of hydro fluid, and let the old stuff drain into an empty jug. Kind of like the way they flush car transmission fluid.
Low pressure hose #26 , connected to tank at fitting #19 is probably the best place for a complete flush. That is the only hose on the whole system where all oil must pass through. Any other hose has alternate paths. I don't think flushing in that way will be very effective or economical. The drive circuit is a closed loop with an automatic loop flushing function built into the motor. Loop flushing removes a small percentage of hot oil from the loop and replenishes it with cool oil from the tank. I don't know how long it takes to replenish the entire loop, but I would guess you would go through a couple 5 gallon pails of oil before it even comes close. I think a few closely spaced oil changes would be just as effective, maybe even more so.
The reason I want to change it is the dealer said they changed the fluid at the 75 hour point and I don't know what they put in. I think it's too thick as the hydro system seems very sluggish anytime the temp drops below 32. I can only get up to 15-20 mph even after running for an hour. Last winter I blew some heat under it for about an hour and it would run 30 mph, but after about a half an hour it got sluggish again and dropped back to 15-20 mph.
I am going to use the synthetic hydro oil recommended in the owners manual as it's supposed to work in cold weather. Northern Maine can easily get to 35 below zero at times, but I'm having issues now between 0 and 30 above.
Along the lines of Ketchn's inquiry here, what would folks suggest about fluid changes on a 2013 demo unit that I just picked up? It had about 10 hours on it: I've put maybe a couple hours on it now. Not sure what the interval is for the first fluid change; I think it's like 50 hrs. Seems that in addition to new wear particles needing to be expelled that units like these also likely have built up a fair amount of moisture from sitting.
Should I change now to address possible moisture issues and then change at the "initial change" interval, or should I just wait until I hit the "initial change" interval?
I know that fluids are supposed to deal with moisture, and being barely used (little breakdown of additives), it would seem that the fluid might be able to run to the first service interval.