[cvosburgh]

2013 Brutus. ..it takes like 8 times of cranking to start in cold weather. Help...

 

[KeviNH]

Are you following the directions in the manual? It helps if you turn the key the first position, watch for the little "heating" icon to turn off, then turn it back off and back to the first position, let the heater shut off again, then finally turn the key to crank.

My manual recommends adding fuel anti-gel, e.g. the arctic formula power service 911. Make sure you get the white bottle.

Better yet, get a block heater or inline coolant heater. I have the dealer-installed block heater, and it helps immensely with cold weather starting, even just 1 hour of heating and my Bobcat 3650 starts on the first try, the little "heating" icon never even comes on when I turn the key. Block or coolant line heater, either one requires draining the antifreeze. If you want a quick fix, try a Kat's magnetic heater.

More on cold weather starting in this thread: http://www.brutusforum.com/forum/po...ting/338-turning-brutus-freezing-weather.html

 

[jimslick]

you really need a hot plug and I leave it on 1 hour before I start the brutus.

 

[Ketchn]

Mine was giving me problems even when the temp was in the 20's, I replaced the fuel filter and it will start down to zero now if I turn the key and run it thru 3 or 4 glow plug cycles. I try real hard to use my block heater any time it's below freezing, but sometimes I need it right now.

 

[KeviNH]

Fuel filter needs regular replacement, but winter also means more attention to draining the fuel/water separator. There is a hand-operated piece to open the drain at the bottom of the fuel filter, I cut down a gallon milk jug so I can wedge it underneath, open the drain until the color changes.

I have an 8-gauge extension cord about 50 feet long, and a remote so I can turn on the block heater an hour or two in advance, brings the engine up to temp:

If it starts but runs rough,also check the air intake for snow.

 

[Ketchn]

Your right about the air intake plugging with snow, I have to clean mine several times whole snow blowing.
I have heard some folks with Polaris ranger 800/900's get a kit from Polaris to move the intake into the cab between the seats. Foe winter that would be great.

 

[KeviNH]

For air intake mesh clogging, any reviews of Outerwear's "Intake Booty"?

The Ranger 900 has the same problem. Some guys are removing the pipe that connects the side vent and installing a Ranger 800 intake baffle behind the seat. This puts the intake inside the cab and will create more noise inside, but it won't clog with snow. Part #5437950, under $20.

I've considered the mod, but don't like the idea of creating more noise inside the cab. Seen some reports that post-mod, cab noise at full throttle increases significantly.

Anybody tried Outerwear's "Intake Booty"?

 

[KeviNH]

Draining the water separator

Having a brief warm spell between snowstorms, so I drained the fuel-water separator today. I let it run until it stopped dripping, maybe a quarter cup of mostly fuel, with a little waxy stuff and a few droplets of water.

I'm going to run down to the highway for some winter blend on-road diesel, and add the prescribed amount of arctic formula "Power Service". The secret ingredient in "Winter Blend" is #1 kerosene, so if you wanted to stockpile your own fuel you could just run regular #2 fuel through a polisher and mix it yourself, we have one Ace hardware store with a cheap #1 heating oil pump on the side of the building (don't use the "stink free" space heater fuel that comes in cans, it's overpriced for this application).

 

[KeviNH]

Zerostart block heater model #310-0093 for Yanmar engine

Better yet, get a block heater or inline coolant heater. I have the dealer-installed block heater, and it helps immensely with cold weather starting, even just 1 hour of heating and my Bobcat 3650 starts on the first try, the little "heating" icon never even comes on when I turn the key. Block or coolant line heater, either one requires draining the antifreeze. If you want a quick fix, try a Kat's magnetic heater.

Update: Had to replace the block heater.


I first just read the part number off the old heater (CLR 1843), ordered an item with the same part number, but it didn't fit (bigger than the threaded opening in the block). Eventually I determined that the correct model is Zerostart model 310-0093.

So if you need to purchase a replacement block heater, you will want to carefully measure the original (or the plug). Measure both the threaded section (I have the Yanmar engine and the threaded plug is 3/4" NPT) and the depth (shallow).

 

[danmac67]

Thanks for this post. My dealer installed block heater just stopped working too (I forgot and left the heater on too long). I've got the 2013 Brutus with Yanmar engine - do you know if the 2013's used the same Yanmar model # as on your 2014? If yes I'll just order the new part # you reference.

Any trick to replacing it? thanks.

Dan

 

[KeviNH]

If you measure the diameter of the threaded portion where it enters the block, the OD of 3/4" NPT is 1.050 inches. You could also buy a 3/4" NPT male filler plug (two bucks at a local plumbing supply). If the plug fits, you know your engine is threaded for 3/4" (apparently some are 1" instead, with an OD of 1.3").

Assuming your block heater is on the top of the engine block, it's possible to skip draining the coolant -- just work fast! Have the new heater ready with teflon tape applied, choose a cold day, and don't run the engine before you start.

After you install the new block heater, fill the "recovery bottle" (aka antifreeze reservoir) to the "Max cold" line, then start the engine while an assistant watches for leaks around the threads. Idle for 5-10 minutes so the thermostat opens and allows coolant to travel through the entire system. When that happens, you'll see the coolant level in the the antifreeze reservoir drop. If you lost more than a half cup or so, then with the engine still running, crack open the thermostat bleed screw slightly and allow trapped air to escape. Close the screw when coolant starts coming out.

 

[danmac67]

Thank you!

 

[danmac67]

Success! Yesterday I replaced the failed block heater with a new one - Zerostart 310-0003 was the match for the '13 Brutus/Yanmar. Very easy, now works perfect. I didn't have to drain the antifreeze ahead of time - to your point, working quickly and the fact that it was near the top of the block helped limit coolant loss. Bled the air, added as needed at the reservoir, and all works great. Thanks again!

 

[KeviNH]

2013 Brutus/Yanmar accepts 1" NPT block heater

Glad to hear #310-0003 (1" NPT) fit your 2013 Brutus.

It's weird that my Bobcat/Yanmar needed the 310-0093 model with the 3/4" NPT thread.

Can you post a picture of your install?

 

[danmac67]

Photo attached (I hope)

 

[jimslick]

my block heater stopped working yesterday, I bought a new hot plug cord zerostart 3600001 ,$15.00 it did the trick.

 

[rdarnold]

threaded Frost plug

I noticed all the threads I have seen regarding this issue have either a 3/4 or 1" pipe threaded plug, My 2013 Brutus simply has a frost plug 35MM in size.
Is their a threaded frost plug I can purchase or do I just modify a normal frost plug to work with the threaded heaters mentioned above.

 

[GTS]

Success! Yesterday I replaced the failed block heater with a new one - Zerostart 310-0003 was the match for the '13 Brutus/Yanmar. Very easy, now works perfect. I didn't have to drain the antifreeze ahead of time - to your point, working quickly and the fact that it was near the top of the block helped limit coolant loss. Bled the air, added as needed at the reservoir, and all works great. Thanks again!

Where is the air bleed screw for a 2013 Polaris Brutus with Yanmar engine?

 

[GTS]

Where is the air bleed screw for a 2013 Polaris Brutus with Yanmar engine?

Found its right on the thermostat housing. Thanks