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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Could someone please post a pic of their relay/fuses for me? I have no relay in the area for "fan"and when my engine gets up to temp it switches the fan on and off repeatedly and drains the battery. Had the alternator checked and it's fine. I have ordered several relay's from Polaris and the relay listed for this slot does not fit at all. I have tried 3 different relay's and none of them fit. I'm in the medical field and not a mechanic but I sure don't see why I can't get the correct relay. Am I missing something? Brand new battery a year ago. Also, does your control arm freeze up when the outside temp is below 10 degree's? Is there a list of recall's anywhere for this model? I've noticed others having "control arm" issues. Been pretty disappointed over Polaris' lack of knowledge on this vehicle. I've had it a year and still haven't been able to use it how it's intended. The thing is a beast otherwise. If anyone happen's to see the guy that abused this before I bought it please poke him in the eye for me, thanks.
 

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Which relay? Do you have the service manuals?

I haven't had "control arm" issues, however I keep it in a garage and use a blockheater when outside temperatures are low.

I see this possibly relevant note on page of "15.29" of the service manual:
NOTE: If the coolant temperature sensor or circuit malfunctions the radiator fan will default to 'ON' while the engine is running.

Interesting problem -- my cooling fan runs often when I'm pushing hard uphill, but doesn't deplete the battery. The relay for the fan is not in the fuse block, it is off to the side, as shown here:



Thanks for reminding me why I bought from a Bobcat dealer and not a Polaris dealer -- the Bobcat dealer doesn't give good discounts on accessories, but they've been great about maintenance and repair.
 

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My 2013 developed problems with the radiator cooling fan last summer. The fan would start at 194° run for about 20 seconds and shut off for about 2 minutes and then cycle on again for another 20 seconds. This caused serious overheating problems. My dealer was not able to solve the problem. If this is what you are seeing, at least you have company.

Everything you are looking for is located under the center council where the hydraulic control is located. The fan fuse is a 40a located in it's own holder in the back left of the electronics pan. The fan relay is located right next to the fuse. To the relay there is a 40a circuit breaker between the battery and relay. The coolant sensor is wired to the ECM then to the ECM relay which triggers the cooling Fan relay.

So what is wrong becomes a complicated question with a lot of chasing of the signal thru 4 devices on the 20a signal side. If your fan comes on at 194° and runs until 182° coolant temperature is reached while in a low idle range only to cycle short ons and long offs at high load and rpm it is called an intermittent failure and the dealer is not going to find the problem with the service procedure they use.

Lift the bed, turn the key off, remove the wiring connector from the coolant sensor, turn the key on(do not start engine), does the fan motor run and the check engine warning light up in a few seconds? Bad coolant sensor or connections. The rest of the fan circuit is good(so they say).
Does the fan motor run slower than usual? Bad motor or weak ground.
Does your dash display show coolant temps correctly above 194°, hot warning light at 230°? Then your sensor is working, signal is getting to the brain box and going from that side of the box to the dash.

That leaves us with 3 possible errors we must check when the engine is running and above 194°. This is not the ideal situation. We already know that the system works at 197° and below. We have a brain box, ECM Relay and a Fan Relay to deal with.

Hopefully replacing the Fan relay and the ECM relay fix the problem. If not a new Brain box or an override option must be wired.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The fan turns on at 194 degrees and turns back off around 180. Seems to work appropriately and the couple times I did run it hot it did indicate I was doing so and it was about to shut off as it's suppose to. I'm stumped. It's either gotta be the weak ground or a bad relay. This has been quite the project trying to fix every gremlin it has had since I bought it. In fairness the previous owner didn't have a clue how to maintain this vehicle. I bought it at 3 years old and have nearly replaced everything, if I can fix this problem I think I would be good to go. Thanks for the info, you always have great insight.......
 

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Thanks and I fixed my problem with an override kit I modified to work, a little riching of fuel helped too. If you ddecide to go that route, I will guide you, I absolutely love how it turned out.
 

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GhostRider,

Could you please explain how you did that. Im having overheating issues with my brutus and would like to install the override so I can switch it on and off when needed. Also how would I be able to tell if I need a new fan motor altogether as mine is no longer cycling on and off.

Thank You.
 

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GhostRider,

My problem is my fan isn't coming on at all. I've checked the fan and ECM relay and they are both good. I dont see a 40A fuse in the electronics box for the fan they are all 20A and 30A. I checked and they are all good. My engine warning light comes on and is reading the correct temperature. The engine will shut itself off when it is to hot. I dont see any weak grounds they are all tight and clean. So that leaves the 40A circuit breaker between the relay and the battery and the fan motor itself. I do not want to order a new fan motor unless Im sure that is what it is. Where is the 40A circuit breaker located and can that possibly be it, how do I test to see if the fan motor is dead, and would the override switch fix this if the fan motor isn't dead?

Thank You,
Tony
 

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The only circuit breaker between the electrical pan and the battery was a 20A breaker that is right outside the electrical pan closest to the drivers seat. I do not know how to test to see if its good so I replaced that as well and the fan motor still doesn't come on. I now ordered a new fan and shroud assembly. I sure hope that is it as it doesn't look easy getting the old fan out and new one in. It looks like you have to take most of the front of the machine apart to get at it and even then looks like a tight fit. If anyone has any suggestions I would appreciate it.

Thank You.
 

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Thought I'd update this thread as to my results. I took apart the front end to remove the fan and shroud. You have to remove the radiator as well as it is attached and can not be separated until both are removed from the machine. Getting it out isn't that difficult once you know how to do it. It took a little time until I found what all needs to be done to do this. You have to drain the radiator as well before removing. So once I had gotten everything reassembled and the radiator refilled with new fluid I gave it a try. Still the fan motor wouldn't come on. So I finally broke down and brought it to the nearest brutus dealer. They retested everything and found out it was a circuit breaker that is not located under the hydraulic joystick along with all the other electronics. Not sure where this is located and the guy in service wasn't sure either. I'm assuming its somewhere between the electronics and the battery? Might have to access it from under the brutus after removing the full body skid plate? I do have 2 relays located under the front hood but those were added when I had a front, rear light bars, block heater, and interior dome light installed so I didn't check those. So anyway I apparently missed a circuit breaker somewhere and it ended up being something simple. Unfortunately it didn't go that way for me but you live and learn.
 

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Hidden circuit breaker on radiator cooling fan circuit?

So I finally broke down and brought it to the nearest brutus dealer. They retested everything and found out it was a circuit breaker that is not located under the hydraulic joystick along with all the other electronics. Not sure where this is located and the guy in service wasn't sure either. I'm assuming its somewhere between the electronics and the battery? Might have to access it from under the brutus after removing the full body skid plate? I do have 2 relays located under the front hood but those were added when I had a front, rear light bars, block heater, and interior dome light installed so I didn't check those. So anyway I apparently missed a circuit breaker somewhere and it ended up being something simple.
Interesting, no mention of it in the service manuals.
 

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I wanted to update this thread on where the 20A breaker was located that I missed. There is a 20A breaker on the passenger side that you can see if you lift the back box up and crouch down in front of the rear tire and look towards the front of the machine. Its in between the frame and the outer plastic panels. It should basically be right in front of your face. You can get better access to it by dropping the bottom skid plate. Then while lying on your back on the passenger side you can reach up and change it out. Once that breaker was replaced and the fan motor would come on I had no other overheating problems. Hope this helps someone.
 

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My 2013 developed problems with the radiator cooling fan last summer. The fan would start at 194° run for about 20 seconds and shut off for about 2 minutes and then cycle on again for another 20 seconds. This caused serious overheating problems. My dealer was not able to solve the problem. If this is what you are seeing, at least you have company.

Everything you are looking for is located under the center council where the hydraulic control is located. The fan fuse is a 40a located in it's own holder in the back left of the electronics pan. The fan relay is located right next to the fuse. To the relay there is a 40a circuit breaker between the battery and relay. The coolant sensor is wired to the ECM then to the ECM relay which triggers the cooling Fan relay.

So what is wrong becomes a complicated question with a lot of chasing of the signal thru 4 devices on the 20a signal side. If your fan comes on at 194° and runs until 182° coolant temperature is reached while in a low idle range only to cycle short ons and long offs at high load and rpm it is called an intermittent failure and the dealer is not going to find the problem with the service procedure they use.

Lift the bed, turn the key off, remove the wiring connector from the coolant sensor, turn the key on(do not start engine), does the fan motor run and the check engine warning light up in a few seconds? Bad coolant sensor or connections. The rest of the fan circuit is good(so they say).
Does the fan motor run slower than usual? Bad motor or weak ground.
Does your dash display show coolant temps correctly above 194°, hot warning light at 230°? Then your sensor is working, signal is getting to the brain box and going from that side of the box to the dash.

That leaves us with 3 possible errors we must check when the engine is running and above 194°. This is not the ideal situation. We already know that the system works at 197° and below. We have a brain box, ECM Relay and a Fan Relay to deal with.

Hopefully replacing the Fan relay and the ECM relay fix the problem. If not a new Brain box or an override option must be wired.
My 2013 developed problems with the radiator cooling fan last summer. The fan would start at 194° run for about 20 seconds and shut off for about 2 minutes and then cycle on again for another 20 seconds. This caused serious overheating problems. My dealer was not able to solve the problem. If this is what you are seeing, at least you have company.

Everything you are looking for is located under the center council where the hydraulic control is located. The fan fuse is a 40a located in it's own holder in the back left of the electronics pan. The fan relay is located right next to the fuse. To the relay there is a 40a circuit breaker between the battery and relay. The coolant sensor is wired to the ECM then to the ECM relay which triggers the cooling Fan relay.

So what is wrong becomes a complicated question with a lot of chasing of the signal thru 4 devices on the 20a signal side. If your fan comes on at 194° and runs until 182° coolant temperature is reached while in a low idle range only to cycle short ons and long offs at high load and rpm it is called an intermittent failure and the dealer is not going to find the problem with the service procedure they use.

Lift the bed, turn the key off, remove the wiring connector from the coolant sensor, turn the key on(do not start engine), does the fan motor run and the check engine warning light up in a few seconds? Bad coolant sensor or connections. The rest of the fan circuit is good(so they say).
Does the fan motor run slower than usual? Bad motor or weak ground.
Does your dash display show coolant temps correctly above 194°, hot warning light at 230°? Then your sensor is working, signal is getting to the brain box and going from that side of the box to the dash.

That leaves us with 3 possible errors we must check when the engine is running and above 194°. This is not the ideal situation. We already know that the system works at 197° and below. We have a brain box, ECM Relay and a Fan Relay to deal with.

Hopefully replacing the Fan relay and the ECM relay fix the problem. If not a new Brain box or an override option must be wired.
My 2013 developed problems with the radiator cooling fan last summer. The fan would start at 194° run for about 20 seconds and shut off for about 2 minutes and then cycle on again for another 20 seconds. This caused serious overheating problems. My dealer was not able to solve the problem. If this is what you are seeing, at least you have company.

Everything you are looking for is located under the center council where the hydraulic control is located. The fan fuse is a 40a located in it's own holder in the back left of the electronics pan. The fan relay is located right next to the fuse. To the relay there is a 40a circuit breaker between the battery and relay. The coolant sensor is wired to the ECM then to the ECM relay which triggers the cooling Fan relay.

So what is wrong becomes a complicated question with a lot of chasing of the signal thru 4 devices on the 20a signal side. If your fan comes on at 194° and runs until 182° coolant temperature is reached while in a low idle range only to cycle short ons and long offs at high load and rpm it is called an intermittent failure and the dealer is not going to find the problem with the service procedure they use.

Lift the bed, turn the key off, remove the wiring connector from the coolant sensor, turn the key on(do not start engine), does the fan motor run and the check engine warning light up in a few seconds? Bad coolant sensor or connections. The rest of the fan circuit is good(so they say).
Does the fan motor run slower than usual? Bad motor or weak ground.
Does your dash display show coolant temps correctly above 194°, hot warning light at 230°? Then your sensor is working, signal is getting to the brain box and going from that side of the box to the dash.

That leaves us with 3 possible errors we must check when the engine is running and above 194°. This is not the ideal situation. We already know that the system works at 197° and below. We have a brain box, ECM Relay and a Fan Relay to deal with.

Hopefully replacing the Fan relay and the ECM relay fix the problem. If not a new Brain box or an override option must be wired.
A 3650 utility Bobcat model 2014 cooling fan won't run I unplug it and straight wire it and it runs I change the relay around the 40 amp breaker the test light shows power on both sides when I took the sensor wire off it got a hundred ninety-four degrees on it when I put it back on it was 63 degrees when it was cold I think it might be the brain box do you have any suggestion what 2 do I think the brain box is around $550 and I do not know if that is the problem Ronnie
 
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